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Pobeda Peak, 7439m. 
Pobeda Peak. Central Tien-Shan, 25 kilometers long Zvezdochka glacier, inflow of glacier South Inylchek. October 1943, in mountains it is a severe winter. Few topographers trying to finish measurements. Calculations are giving altitude 7439 m. Is it mistake or discovery of new highest point of Central Tien Shan? Until now everybody new that the highest point of Tien-Shan is Khan-Tengri 6995 m. New measurements and calculations confirm altitude 7439 m. Summit was named Pobeda.

Pobeda Peak was suggested to be most nothern 7000 meters peak in the world. The history of its exploration is full of disasters, accidents, heroism and happiness.

The first persons to attempt to climb up Pobeda were a three-man team of mountaineers led by L. Gutman. They went up the northern side of the Zviozdochka (Little Star) glacier in September 1938, when the temperature was -30°C. To this day there are serious doubts as to whether they really succeeded in conquering the peak. In any case, the three alpinists were not aware they were trying to climb up the tallest peak in the Tien Shan system. The first successful climb dates from 1956, when an expedition headed by V. Abalakov reached the summit after a 30-day climb.
Usually people use helicopter to reach their Base Camp on Inylchek glacier. Base Camp on the South Inylchek is 3900m.high. It takes about 20 minutes to get here from the «dry land» with helicopter. It is better to have previous acclimatization gethering 2000 meters in 20 minutes….
 
In the base camp one can take pleasure in the camping tents which are for 2-3 persons each one. In such a tent you can just can not stay in a full height.
 
From the first camp on Zvezdohka glacier to the Camp 2 on Dikiy pass it takes about 5 hours. First route cross a long steep slope which set in a icefall. Because of the icefall and a lot of snow accumulated above this part of th route demand you to passit early in the morning or in th night.
 
Camp 2 on Pobeda peak. Dikiy Pass. Jay Sieger arrive to the tent
 
Set up Camp 3 on the snow plateau that opens out onto the pass. The best place for this is higher up on the ridge, just before the rocks (5,800 m). You should dig a snow cave: because of the wind coming from the west it is extremely cold in a tent. The route continues towards West Pobeda Peak (6918 m), along the snow, ice and rock ridge. There is a fixed rope in the difficult passages. In this part of the route as well it is not possible to set up an intermediate camp; the only exception might be at 6.400 meters, but this should be done only in case of an emergency, as the night wind is so strong it can tear your tent to shreds. It is advisable to go to West Pobeda Peak and dig an ice cave on the Chinese side, which is sheltered from the wind, and set up Camp 4. Lastly, there is the way long twelve-kilometres ridge at 7,000 meters, which leads to Pobeda Peak (7,439 m). Before reaching the summit, climbers usually set up Camp 5 at 7,000 meters. The highest point of the peak itself lies 400 meters after you have reached the top plateau. The descent follows the same route and takes two days.
''Forbidden mountains''
(Paola Pozzolini Sicouri and Vladimir Kopylov