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Russian mountain guides, Climbing, Ski touring and Telemark programms in Russia and CIS countries, climb mount Elbrus, Khan-Tengri, Lenin Peak, Communism and Korjenevskaya peaks expeditions, Muztagh Ata expedition.
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Climb Lenin Peak, 7134 m. 21 days programm. 

Overview

Peak Lenin is the third highest peak in the former Soviet Union and is considered to be one of the easiest mountains over 7000m. Because of this fact it has become one of the most popular peaks in the world and annually receive hundreds of climbers from all over the world.

The area gets frigidly cold in the winter, even though it's not as bad as at the Pik Pobeda area, which holds many records in the extreme climate criteria.
The spring is beautiful and extremely green and even if the weather in general is quite good, sudden violent storms hits the peak. More important though, is the deep snow which make attempts very hard and the avalanche danger is generally higher. Melt off from the glaciers and snow fields also makes access hard.
In the main climbing season the weather is usually quite stable and until you reach 5000m it can be really hot.
In the end of August storms appear with higher frequency, it fast gets colder and the first autumn snowfalls hide dangerous crevasses and makes progress on the peak harder.

Rout Description

There are several routes for climbing the summit, but the classical route from the north side. The classical route does not demand special experience and skills in technical climbing. Lenin Peak is one of the obligatory summit of «Snow Leopard» — the highest title in alpinism in the former Soviet Union.  Lenin Peak is a very beautiful and powerful peak, but the classical route does not have steep ice-rock parts. The entire route should usually overcome in sheaf using the rope for 2-3 people.

Base Camp is situated on a large meadow (Edelweiss field) at about 3600m. The route to camp 1 takes you across the meadow to follow a steep, narrow path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4200m). The trail switch-backs up the glacial moraine before the ascent via the left ridge of Lenin Glacier to the head of the glacier where camp 1 is established at 4200m. Camp 1 is also a permanent campsite with toilet facilities, electricity and running water.

From camp 1 the walk starts off easy as you cross the flat glacier and ascend the long snow slope which runs directly to the summit. The terrain is heavily glaciated and you’ll be roped up for sections of the trail. There are also some fixed ropes and ladders across some of the more crevassed sections. The north face of the mountain ahead of you is avalanche prone after recent snow and care needs to be taken. You traverse the rim of a large snow basin beneath Razdelny Peak and ascend a steep 400m snow slope to arrive at a flat sport where camp 2 is established at 5300m.

From camp 2 the route ascends steeply on to the ridge. The gradient is up to 45 degrees at its steepest points. The route is not glaciated and whilst crampons will be worn, ropes and harnesses are not usually necessary. You follow the ridge up to an altitude of 6100m where camp 3 can be established in the small saddle under Mt Razdelnaya.

From camp 3 you will ascend along the western ridge of Peak Lenin. The first part of this ridge is mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is reached at 6400m. Above this plateau is a short steep snow slope of about 40 degrees. Above this there is a rocky section which leads to the summit plateau at 7134m. The summit itself is marked with a memorial plaque. The views are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China. You will return via the same route to camp 3. Summit day is a long day of up to 15 hours.

Skill

Lenin Peak is one of the easiest 7000m peaks in the world and technically speaking, it's a straightforward climb, similar in grade to Mont Blanc or Elbrus. Nevertheless it is a very high peak (over 2300m higher than Mont Blanc) so it is by no means an “easy summit”. The route follows a well-explored trail that includes some steep and exposed stretches on ridges. Between base camp and camp 2 is heavily glaciated and there is a small risk of avalanches.
Winter mountaineering experience and use of ice axe and crampons is essential. Although technically straightforward neither the ascent nor the mountain should be underestimated since both are Himalayan in character. High altitude and adverse weather are the main concerns.

Base Camp — is located at an altitude of 3600m above sea level on a picturesque glade covered by alpine flowers — edelweiss.  The Base camp surrounded by very nice small mountain lakes. It is a wonderful nice place of relaxation and recreation.
The Camp is equipped with Yurts — mess-rooms where you may spend your time and to taste some excellent dishes.  Kitchen specialized on tasty and excellent food 3 times a day.  
The accommodation is the Base Camp will be provided in double tents (barrels). There is flooring and tambour in every tent.
We have toilet, shower with hot water in our Base Camp. Electricity is generated every evening in our BC. You’ll be able to recharge your cameras satellite and mobile phones.
There is a mobile access (GSM standard) on 3600. 
Camp 1 — is located on moraine at an altitude of 4200m on rock moraine. This camp does not have all the conveniences as BC. And this place is not oriented for relaxation and rest. We provide only tent accommodation and high altitude nutrition 3 times a day. Also in connection with threatening eco-disaster it might be verboten to set up commercial camps on 4200. It means that in the future services of our company on 4200 could be canceled.

 

Day   Program
day 1  

Arrival in International “Manas” Aiport (Bishkek). Awaiting for 1 hour (or more – depending on time of arrival) air flight to Osh city. Arrival in Osh, transfer to hotel.     

day 2  

Transfer: Osh – Achik-Tash Base Camp. 280 km, about 8 hours driving.
Arrival in Base Camp. Double tents accommodation. Breakfast, lunch, dinner.   

day 3  

Acclimatization. Climbing the Peak Petrovskogo (4830m).

day 4  

Day for preparation.

day 5  

Climbing Camp 1 (4200m).

day 6  

Climbing Camp 2 (5300m).

day 7  

Climbing Camp 3 (6100).

day 8  

Descent to Camp 1.

day 9  

Descent to the Base Camp.

day 10  

Rest day.

day 11  

Preparation day.

day 12  

Climb the Camp 1 (4200m).

day 13  

Climb the Camp 2 (5300m).

day 14  

Climb the Camp 3 (6100m).

day 15  

Ascent the summit (7134m) and descent to the Camp 3. 

day 16  

Descent to the Camp 1.

day 17  

Descent to the main Base Camp.

day 18  

Additional day in case of bad weather conditions. 

day 19  

Transfer to Osh city. Guest House accommodation.

day 20  

Air flight Osh – Bishkek. Hotel accommodation.

day 21  

Departure.

* This plane of program we offer to our clients and it is accorded on years experience, if you will use our Mountain Guide you will follow this itinerary.

The price includes following service and expenses

1. Meeting and seeing of at the airports of Bishkek and Osh.
2. Air flight (tickets) Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek.
3. All necessary formalities (visa support, omission to the boundary zone etc.)
4. Accommodation in the cities based on sharing twin rooms in a guest houses 2-3 stars  (Osh 2 nights and 1 night  in Bishkek after expedition).
If you fly to Osh directly the early arrival (before 12 PM) will be counted as a full night extra.  
5. Transfer: Osh – Achik-Tash (Base Camp) – Osh.
6. Accommodation and nutrition (3 times a day) in the Base Camp and camp on 4200 (double tents). The number of full service days in BC is unlimited (but not more than 16). Only 4 nights and 4 days full board in C1 are included.
7. Complete kitchen equipment including: cook, mess tent, tables, chairs, a mess kit, gas stoves
 and cooking set etc in the Base Camp and Camp on 4200.     
8. Using the electricity in the Base Camp

The price does not include:

1. Nutrition in the cities.
* We can organize nutrition in the cities also. It will cost 25 USD per person per day.
2. Transportation of the luggage on 4200.
3. High altitude cook and food
4. Rent of the tents during the ascent period. 
5. Price of Kyrgyz Visa  
6. Rent of mountaineering equipment.
7. Mountain insurance.
8. Extra food in BC and C1   

For complementary:

Day in base camp and on 4200 – 52 USD (including accommodation and nutrition full board)
Day in Osh or Bishkek costs 40 USD for double accommodation and 60 USD for single accommodation.

1. High mountain guide highly recommended maximum group for one guide 4 pax.  The price for season 2009 — 2300USD per group of maximum 4-5 pax.
* IF you are not experienced alpinist or if you have never been at altitude of 7000 m we recommend you to take our high altitude guide. All of them are more than experienced and reached the summit lots of times. Also we guarantee you 100% safety if you climb with our guide.

2. Gas cartridges – 7 USD per one standard 230 gr (propane-butane)

3. Porters  support
From 3600m to 4200m – 3 USD per 1 kg
From 4200m to 5300m – 8 USD per 1 kg
From 5300m to 6100m – 15 USD per 1 kg
Higher 6100m                  27 USD per 1 kg     

The same price on the way down 
     
If the client organize porters by them self with porters not from Asia Mountains Base Camp, our company is not responsible with this cargo.

4. Rent of tents – 110USD per expedition

Useful information:
 
1. During the air flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek, it is permitted to have 15 kg of the load. Payment for extra kilos  0, 7 USD per kg.

2. Our company does not provide rent of equipment, because choice of equipment is individual.

3. If participants of the expedition can not continue the program because of some reasons (stomach or acclimatization problems), participants can stay in the Base Camp all the period of the program. These are expenses of the company.

4. If the program finishes earlier because of any reasons, the company provides service of accommodation in the cities according to the program (Osh 2 nights and 1 night in Bishkek). The other days will be necessary to pay extra. Also there won’t be money refund.
* If you leave our BC earlier (not according to the itinerary) there can be other groups traveling with you and also class of vehicle can be various. 

5. Payment. The best possibility to provide payment for our service – cash by arrival in Bishkek (USD or Euros). If the possibility is not comfortable for you, we can give you our bank account. But, all the payment 100% must be provided two weeks before the programme.   

6. Money can be changed in Kyrgyzstan without any problems Euros or USD. But please take into account that the small banknotes 1, 5, 10 dollars will be taken by the smaller rate than 50 and 100 banknotes. That is difficult to change old USD (small portrait). It is difficult to change banknotes with stamps on them. We do not accept the USD with any stamps or marks on them.         

 7. Cargo. If you want to send us some cargo, please take into account that we do not provide such service, but we can give you the contact who can do that. Please note that the cargo delivery must be organized up to the door of our office and not only to the airport, we will not provide service with customs formalities.  

8. Insurance.  Please note you must have insurance which will cover rescue by helicopter in case of health problem or accident. You have to provide us with all information about your insurance with you passport information before we will do all necessary permits for you. In the contract must be words “alpinist insurance witch covers rescue works at altitude over 4000m”. The scanned copy of insurance is obligatory.  

  9. Principles of the company. As participant of international eco-project ITZ “Asia Mountains” recommend you to follow its principles to avoid approaching eco-disaster.
They are:
— Please don’t take unneeded packaging; avoid non-returnable packaging.
— Please dispose the garbage separately: organic waste can be disposed at the place and non-organic waste should be taken off the nature.
— Please don’t burn hazardous materials (plastic etc).
— Please use only marked paths.
— Please use installed toilets if available.
— Please try to follow the guidelines of National Parks.
— Please avoid the pollution of water and ice (don’t pour out benzene, petrol and other polluting liquids into water or on ice).

   
Alay valley. Nomads.
Alay valley
Kyrgyz girl with her brother
Lenin peak, approaching Razdelnaya summit.
Camp 3, 6100m., after Razdelnaya summit
Intermediate camp on 6400m.
View t othe valley from 6700m.