Muztagh Ata (Often Spelled: «Muztagata, or
Mustagh Ata, or Muztaghata, or Muztagh Ata or Muztag Ata») is the second high
summit in Kun-Lun range, standing not so far from te first one which
is Mt. Kongur(7719 m.)
. Both mountains are situated in Xingjang
region iof China. Some people sugest it to be China Pamir, but
more usual is to hear Kun-Lun Mountains. In local languages
Muztagh Ata means "Father of Ice Mountain`s". The huge snow mountain-mass
raised above the Karakul Lake attracts the mountaineers of the whole
world. Normal route to the top is not really difficult, but requires
good physical shape. Usually it takes around two weeks to fulfill
normal programme with 2-3 acclimatization turns before
summit attempt. Normal BC is situated on the level of
approximately 4400m. and connected with Subashi (last point on the
road from Kashgar) by rather good road, which allows to use services
of jeeps and motor bykes drivers to bring the staff up or down.
Usually it is required to hire Kyrgyz people with camels to bring
your luggage up. Normal climbing program consists of few
acclimatization turns before summit bid. It takes one day to
climb camp 1 from the BC and go back. After that climbers ususally
has a day rest before next turn. On the next turn they has
overnighnt in the camp 1 and excursion to the camp 2, which stays on
the altitude about 6100m. The same day or next morning climbers
went down and take one or two days rest in the Base Camp. Next
acclimatization turn could be to spend one or two overmights on the
altitude 6100 and to make an excursion higher on the mountain, to
Camp3, which is about 6800m. high. Summit attempt from the Camp3 to
the summit for intermediate climber usually takes about 8 hours. It
is preferably to use skis during the climb, but many people do not
have it, so one can use feet trek and ski trek as
well.
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